South Dakota to Yellowstone: I got up at 5 (yesterday’s 6am and Sunday’s
7). Watched the sunrise kind of
unintentionally. Hour-long shower in
beautiful bathroom. Got out and Tim was just waking up or just getting out of the tent. Lazy. He broke down the tent and I cooked breakfast. Very efficient. The whole
maneuver probably took an hour tops. Tim
took a shower while I packed the car. I
took first driving shift across Black Hills to, eventually, Mt. Rushmore. We got there and realized there was a charge
to see Mt. Rushmore – or a “parking fee” which effectively meant the same. We decided to cheat and take pictures from a couple miles away. Same experience. Some would call us cynical or cheap. We call ourselves patriots. Took off on 14W to
Wyoming. Incredible delays because of
construction. Soul-crushing stuff. We finally passed into Wyoming, which I found
to be even more beautiful than SD. Tim
pointed out that all of Wyoming seemed to be in a valley even though that
wouldn’t seem physically possible.
Played a lot of the “distance game,” guessing how far we were from this or that landmark in the distance. More often
than not our guesses came within a half mile and we were very impressed with
ourselves. Towns in Wyoming were
depressing. Lots looked like
junkyards. Oil towns? Stopped in Gillette around noon and got food
supplies at Kroger and some lunch (chicken in surfeit for me, a bag of spinach,
yes, seriously, for Tim). We saw a few flags at half mast but never did
find out why. I offered that in the
world of mass media one would be callous to ever hang a flag at anything BUT
half mast. Tim wasn’t impressed and
maybe justifiably. Tim took second shift
driving out of Gillette and immediately hit upon Bighorn National Forest. Up a mountain, down the other side, all the while
(qualifier: we did some Fresh Air and some cowboy music beforehand) listening
to a Tom Ashbrook program on maternity leave. Somewhat a one-sided conversation but that
seems to have been inevitable. Stuck behind a bus on the way down from BNF. Gave me plenty of time to look around and get
nervous about the crevasse next to us.
Emerged uninjured and got stuck in a crazy-looking thunderstorm that
stretched away across both sides of 14 for miles and miles and onto the scrubby
plains beyond. Lots of lightning to be
seen. Just like in Iowa, though I’d say
more dramatically, the rain itself proved impotent and our
anxieties were for nothing. Tim’s right to
suggest that you want to reckon with SOME kind of life-or-death, high-stakes
weather when the build up is so enormous.
Still the sensible side of me sides with my mother’s mother: Nature is
the enemy. It wants to kill us. Why tempt it or wish it upon ourselves? After Cody every turn of the road was a better view. A crescendo of views. Valleys, rivers, promontories, snow on the
tops of mountains, recently fallen boulders and rocks on the road, orange clay
all around, precarious rock formations centuries old. Also notable: the river rushed with a vitally
unfamiliar to us. Tim points out that the
Mississippi and Michigan were comparably “static” and I agree. We were spoiled by the prettiness. Hard to take in all at once. Saw some houses and ranches out there and
reflected upon the gangsterness of living effectively in Yellowstone, waking up
and walking outside and surveying your land which would be not only some of the
most beautiful in America but some of the most beautiful in the WORLD. Later: $25 to enter Yellowstone; another 30
per night to camp; ten for wood and kindling; four showers granted but any additional would cost more. "Buy more showers." Are we not men? Driving to campground ruminated on federal
penalty for killing bison at Yellowstone.
Mutated into Bohemian Rhapsody parody about killing bison in Yellowstone
and being sentenced to prison: "Nothing really matters, / Anyone can see, / Nothing really matters / Except killing that bison last weeeeeek. / Never kill a bi-sooooooon.” General unimaginable beauty by Lake Butte for
the whole time we were creating this musical monstrosity. Forgetting so easily that we were on God’s
own half-acre. Rainstorm as soon as we found the site. Set the tent up in record time
with some urgency behind us. Turned out
fine, as usual.
Learned that Tommy would not be
joining us due to a work snafu. Big blow. We decided we needed to re-plan the rest of our route but would save that ordeal for later.